I had a GeForce graphics card where every single electrolytic capacitor swelled up on top and split apart at the 'no explode' safety score marks before I noticed and stopped using it, fearing a fire. These counterfeit capacitors are in just about every sort of consumer equipment sold over the past decade and IMO responsible for most of the premature failures in consumer audio manufactured with them. Capacitors tend to fail as they get old especially with counterfeit electrolytic capacitors coming from Taiwanese manufacturers with the 'capacitor plague' stolen, incorrect electrolyte formula (see Wikipedia). Popping noises in a class D plate amp could come from multiple sources, but most likely due to failed capacitors inducing instability somewhere and causing intermittent oscillations. Why people post to forums with "just buy a new one" is beyond me. If you have that kinda dough to attempt to fix faulty hardware, buying the exact same model (which obviously has flaws from the factory) is idiotic. ![]() At the very least you should avoid spending $140 bucks for a new amp. Anyways, when I get the time to pull the sucker apart again I will repost to this thread, optimistically, with a resolution to the new problems. The best I can describe the noise is the sound a vacuum makes as you shove the hose against a carpet. The sub is now making sounds that I can only assume has something to do with variable voltages being delivered to the driver (maybe I have some bad caps now). However, now I am experiencing new symptoms of hopefully a different issue. My sub functioned flawlessly for 6 or 7 months after this fix. After labeling and removing the actual faulty resistors I looked up the wattages on the physical pieces and they were 5W on the R9 and 3W on the R6. So either the resistors were installed incorrectly at the factory or the user manual was wrong. I replaced the resistors according to the hardware that was originally in place on my amp. I had the same issue when reviewing the user manual for the sub. My best answer for you is that the resistor wattages I posted are not typos. I added a second 10" Pioneer sub to the rear seating area and two remotes (one front and one rear).Hi and thanks for your inquiry to my post. My boat came with the KMC10, Kicker 5 channel amp under the helm, Kicker 10" sub under the front Starboard seat and 4 Wetsounds speakers. Adding a 5 channel amp and sub to your boat would be pretty easy to do. The 10" Kicker sub was mounted under the forward starboard seat. Then when under way they could completely turn the rear speakers off and have everything faded to the front 4. ![]() That way they could fade (turn down) the 4 speakers in the passenger area but turn up the rear speakers when people were hanging out in the water behind the boat. I wired it so the deck speakers were by themselves and the other 4 together. I did rewire the pairs of speakers because the factory had the rear deck speakers wired with another pair. ![]() That's fine to do as they are 8 ohm speakers and wired together it only presents a 4 ohm load which the deck/amp can handle no problem. The factory had it wired similar as your head unit with two pairs wired together. I have friends who have the factory Kicker/Amp set-up with 6 speakers and sub. ![]() The easiest way to determine what is wired to what is by checking the fade (hold down the audio button for a second or two and the audio settings menu will display). So, if you've got 6 speakers (3 pairs) then obviously they've got 2 pairs wired together. The KMC10 by itself has 4 speaker outputs (RF, LF, RR, LR).
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